Hello All!

I am a newbie here and have just completed my first Hydroxy Cell. I based my

construction on that found on Bryan Rossel’s site HydroPowerCar.com and some

others I’ve picked up along the way as well as a few of my own. I started by

purchasing what I thought were 12pcs. of Stainless Steel wall plates, at

least that is how they were marked.

I knew I had to maintain a 1/8″ (approx. 3mm) gap between the plates, but

1/4″ nuts were too thick, I needed No.10 threaded rod (nut thickness approx.

.127″), but could not find any locally available, so I decided to purchase

10-32 x 3″ Stainless Steel Oval-Headed screws as well as No. 10 SS Washers

and No. 10-32 SS nuts from Ace Hardware, and just cut the heads off with a

Dremel/Cutoff Disc. The 3″ of thread allows for plenty of assembly room for

a 12-plate design, and I estimate it may even accomodate a 14 or even a 16

plate setup.

With a VARI-BIT step drill bit, I made 1 hole in each plate 7/32nds

of-an-inch, and the other 1/2″. These sizes made a nice fit for the 10-32

“rod” and the rubber Insulating Grommet (J.C.Whitney). The grommet has an

Inner Dia. of approx. .400″, the 10-32 nut has a dia. across-the-hex of

approx. .423″. This difference in size makes for a nice push-fit between the

Grommet and the nut, the Grommet is allowed to expand slightly because it is

located in a somewhat larger-than-spec hole for its size.

I used adhesive-backed Magnetic Tape, “HM” brand from Home Depot, HM #97012,

1/2″ wide and approximately 1/16th of-an-inch thick, for the spacing of the

plates. It is non-conductive and it even has an exposed scribe line (under

the adhesive separator) along the middle making it easy to cut in half along

its length. This was very handy as I “doubled-up” on the tape to achieve the

1/8″ spacing.

Assembly starts by leaving approx. 3/4″ sticking “out” on the end, and

nutting the first plate with a single nut on the outside and two on the

inside, the other hole gets the grommet. To start the next plate, put a nut,

no. 10 washer and then two more nuts together, leaving the end of the rod

flush with the face of the nut. This is if you are going for a Vertical

stacking insead of Horizontal, it allows clearance for the power conductor

tube. Push this assembly through the grommet of the first plate, you will

see that the double-nut is almost the same thickness as the Grommet (approx.

.261″).

Depending on whether you are building a Horizontal or a Vertical stack,

apply two pieces of doubled-up magnetic strip (combined thickness approx.

1/8″) equal-distance AWAY from the screw centerline(Vertcal), but not so far

away as to be in the curved areas of the plate edge. For Horizontal stacks,

you want to be BETWEEN the screw locations. When you tighten up the plates

against the grommets, they will “give” enough for the plate to contact the

doubled-up nuts inside, and yet still remain insulated from the other

connection.

After assembly, I checked for lack of continuity (open circuit) between the

plates. To supply current to the plate assembly, I used 1/4″ x 12″ SS Tubing

(K&S Metals, Ace Hardware) flattened at the end with a vise, and then

drilled a 7/32″ Hole. I used tubing as I thought it would be easier to seal

in a pressure vessel by means of common plumbing-type compression fittings.

The power connections to the tubes are made with Copper clamp terminals,

also found at Home Depot.

Now for the BIG TEST, does it make gas? Well yes, BUT, those plates were

either mis-labeled or a very low grade of stainless steel, because the

water(approx.3 Quarts) turned Brown like un-filtered Apple juice very

quickly. I first used a little “PH up” from Petsmart and brought the level

up to a 7, this resulted in approx. 15-20 Amps being drawn, but it was

difficult to see what was going on. Next I tried fresh tap water with Baking

Soda (swiped the box from the Fridge), this stuff works very well indeed!

Using a 3/8″ flat-blade stubby screwdriver as a scoop, I found that I could

increase the amperage in 5 Amp steps with only a small heap on the

screwdriver tip. Again Brown water very quickly.

I then constructed a very makeshift Hydroxyvessel (see photos), with

Petsmart air-stones to inducing bubbling, and hooked up to a vaccum line on

my car. Interestingly enough, the air-stones did a real nice job of inducing

a swirl inside the jar(don’t laugh, it’s American made and I got it at

Wal-Mart!) Car did not idle very well, could have been too much vacuum loss

from the air stones, water turned a dark Brown quickly, so I just

disconnected the outfit and decided to gather what I’ve learned.

1. Went to Home Depot and got some REAL SS wall plates (brought a Magnet),

they are Pass & Seymour legrand #SS13CC25.

2.Ordered some Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) from a vendor on eBay.

3. Ordered two 10″ Water Filter Housings, one for Reaction Chamber and the

other for a Bubbler.

4. Ordered a variety (1/8″-1/4″) of Check Valves from U.S. Plastics.

5. Use less tape for spacing, (5) 1/2″ square “pads” (4 corners and 1

center) should be enough, will expose more plate area, hopefully require

less elctrolyte (KOH)

6. Report back on “New” and “Improved” version.

Thanks for the inspiration to get started.

-Don