This report is for everyone who like to make a reactor. Report contents divide to 3 parts.

1. reactor body 2.pwm control board 3.test voltage, current frequency&,pulse width wave

Ok ! Let’s go.

1. Reactor body

my original reactor ,use 1.44mb disk steel panel

use salt for electrolyte,the anode plate has corroded like thin paper

b. my first reactor

my first reactor ,anode plate use 304, 0.6mm stainless panel and cathode use 0.4mm aluminium panel,size:120mm*60mm

(a) corroded & rust

for several tests,the cathode plate & screw has corroded,the metal rust L

the middle screw ,use clear plastic ring 4mm ( cut from ball-point pen ) to isolate the cathode

and anode panel.

For the corrode reason ,I modify it,change to all 304 parts,stainless panel,screw,washer,spring

washer and screw nut.

water filter can,3/8”outlet ,air pump (feed fish air pump buy from aquarium) inlet ,aquarium air stone below the reactor

But the 1^st reactor is too long ( length :33cm * diameter 13cm),cann’t easy put into car ( 1992 subaru justy 1.2 L & 1993 peugeot 405 1.9L )

I try many times,even move the battery & air cleaner case in car ,but no use.

So,I modify it again,the 2^nd reactor

c.2^nd reactor

use a small case (1.0 liter ,”lock & lock microwave box” work temperature:-30~+140 degree C),

3/8”outlet ,air pump inlet with jet below plate

(a) electrode set plastic had melted

I was checked the reactor action at car,with 2 spoone bake soda,when car battery power was connect with 1^st reactor,amper meter display DC 93A ,the electrode set plastic had melted (3 second). This accident thing scared me. My God! DC93A ,if electrolyze current too large,it is not comfortable in car.The car engine can not running. I think I need the PWM plus width control sets and need to enhance the electrode set to isolate high heat from electrode set working.

So,I modify it again. I use the spare bakelite-pcb(1.6mm) make two sets isolate washer locked on up cover of box, screw nut->spring washer->washer->pcb->up cover->pcb->washer->spring washer->screw nut,anode & cathode electrode set have oneself isolate heat washer.

2. PWM control board

a.1^st pwm control board

according public “generator electrode circuit schematic”,I buy all parts and soldering it. But ,for several tests ago, I find it’s have some question. So,I modify it.

b.2^nd pwm control board

modify item:

(a.) use a computer power supply case,include a DC 12v brushless fan for cooling the big aluminium heat sink.

(b.) mosfet from IRF510 one set change to IRFP250N two sets, if necessary,expand to three sets.

(c.) move out IC ua741 ,change to vr20k,(parallel 4.7k ohm for micro adjust fet tri-stage current).

(d.) move out pulse width adjust vr 2k ohm,change to 1.5k ohm fix resister.because throttle adjust as same as pulse width adjust.

(e.)add the 555 reset circuit, 100k ohm resister and 1000 uf capacitor make a 7 second delay timer.

When car power on,the start motor need very large dc current to start engine,so I think delay 7 senond times then start the electrolyzer is needed. Start motor and electrolyzer load current will kill the car battery.

3. test voltage, current frequency&,pulse width wave & electrode set temeratuer

test condition :power supply device max DC11.96v ,14.5A ,SCOPE:volt/div: 5v,time/div:5us

power supply device

a.10 ohm 20w solid resister voltage, current frequency&,pulse width wave

left is dc voltage,right is ac voltage,test point from (m+)to(m-) output (resister two side)

b.pulse width 47% electrode plate voltage, current frequency&,pulse width wave

c.pulse width 69% electrode plate voltage, current frequency&,pulse width wave

I think the car battery power supply can endure load (electrolyzer) current is 20A( my thought),if over too much, will damage the battery,so,design the load current under 20a.

d. electrode set temeratuer